I was going through some of my old (no, ancient) issues of Keyplate News, Bond and Beyond, Bond (UK) newsletter and other machine publications to list what I’d like to feature this year and came upon this very interesting way of combining the Fair Isle technique with a tuck (lift-up, as if you were making a hem) stitch. Let’s call the stitch “Fair Isle Tuck Ridge Stitch” for lack of a better word. It’s actually what you’re not supposed to do when working traditional Fair Isle patterning. For the Fair Isle Tuck Ridge, you will want long floats that you do not catch in on the second row. As you’ll see, the floats become “filler” for the ridge.
This stitch would be great on borders of baby blankets, edgings of kids’ sweaters, purses and, as shown below, glovelets (not sure that’s a word, but it describes long gloves that are minus the fingers).
For this technique, it’s fastest to do using a 3-prong transfer tool and you’ll want a couple claw weights. But it’s really easy to do and gives you lots of opportunities.
For those of you who have not yet done a hem, now’s a good time to review your video or DVD or book, as we’ll start from that point, after doing the hem.
Note that the actual pattern for the glovelets will follow the technique description directly below. The glovelets are knitted from the cuff to the palm. They are knitted in one piece until the side shaping, then the back and front are knitted separately. And the Plum Heather color would coordinate beautifully with the Friendship Shawl!
With MC, knit number of rows in st st as called for in pattern. Work Fair Isle Tuck ridge:
Counting in from both side edges, bring forward needles #10 & 11: 4 ndls in HP. Note you can position the Fair Isle sts wherever you like as long as there is at least 8 sts separating each Fair Isle group.
With Color A, knit row 1.
With Color B, manually knit the Fair Isle sts.
Catch in the end of the float at each end by looping the yarn around the last needle.

Continue in Fair Isle until there are a total of 4 rows. They should look like the above.
Starting from the LHS, insert the 3-prong tool into the far left 3 sts from the last row of the MC (so the bumps you pick up with the tool are in the MC) and release them onto their respective needles above. Note you may need a claw weight to hold down the sts to the LHS.
As you continue lifting the sts across the row, you will see how the floats from the previous 4 rows are enclosed.
Continue across the row. About half way across, your knitting should look something like this.
When the ridge row (actually 4 rows) has been completed, with MC, knit the number of rows required until the next Fair Isle Tuck Ridge. Tip: vary the colors you use for the ridge and Fair Isle sts for a more interesting look.
GLOVELETS
SIZE
One Size
MATERIALS
Caron’s Simply Soft® Heather (5 oz/142 gr skeins, 100% acrylic):
1 skein each Plum Heather #9505, Denim Heather #9504, Deep Plum Heather #9506.
GAUGE
Using KP #2 in st st: 17 sts & 23 rows = 4”
Glovelet (make 2, reversing shaping for second)
- WY CO 40 sts.
- K 4 R. Break off.
- With MC, K 10 R.
- Form hem by lifting up sts of first row MY to respective needles in WP as for technique description above.
- RC = 0.
- K 6 R.
- Using Colors A & B, work Fair Isle Tuck Ridge as described above.
- RC = 0.
- Repeat Steps 6-8, reversing the placement of Colors A & B.
- Repeat Steps 6-8 as described.
- K 10 R.
- RC = 0.
- COR. Push all ndls on LHS up to HP. Use 2-3 claw weights to hold down knitting as you work. Place a marker at both ends of work.
- K 2 R.
- Dec 1 st each end of sts in WP.
- K til RC = 18.
- Repeat shaping of sides: 16 sts.
- K til RC = 34. COR.
Shape thumb opening: 
- BO 4 sts, then e-wrap them again to cast on. Push these sts into FWP.
- K 1 R. COL.
- Hang claw weight onto sts cast on.
- K 6 R.
- BO in backstitch.
- Remove these sts from machine.
- Push ndls on LHS back to FWP.
- Shape as for side just completed, but form thumb opening on LHS of bed.

Here are photos of the unfinished gloves, both the right side and wrong side so you can see the Fair Isle Tuck Ridge off the machine.
Finishing: Sew side seam to marker, then sew front to back at sides. Tip: when seaming the one side (to marker) then both side seams, rather than enclosing a full stitch when doing the invisible or mattress stitch, just enclose half of the stitch. This will make for a flatter seam. |